Where the stack breaks through the roof plane, two layers of metal do all the work. We repair, reset, and rebuild that seam so driven rain stays outside.
Every chimney crosses the roof somewhere, and that crossing is sealed by flashing — thin metal, layered in a specific order, doing a job caulk never can. The lower layer, called step flashing, interleaves with the shingle or tile courses so runoff keeps moving down the roof plane. The upper layer, the counter-flashing, sits in a groove cut into the masonry — the reglet — and hangs over the step pieces like a hood. Rain gets shed only while both layers hold their geometry. Once wind lifts an edge, salt opens a pinhole, or the reglet joint lets go, water slips behind the metal and goes to work on the framing below.
Broward roofs get replaced often — hurricanes and aging shingles see to that — and re-roofing is where most flashing problems are born. It's common to find brand-new shingles laced around twenty-year-old step flashing, or fresh counter-flashing glued flat to the brick because nobody wanted to cut a reglet. Those shortcuts hold for a couple of wet seasons, then quit. Our repairs go the other way: we cut the groove, seat the metal into the masonry, weave new step pieces course by course, and strip out any tar patches standing in for real metal. The quote for that work is written, free, and priced before we start.




Galvanized steel and ocean air are a bad match. The zinc coating that protects flashing inland gets consumed quickly within reach of salt spray, and in Pompano Beach that reach extends well past the barrier island — the sea breeze carries salt across the Intracoastal and into the neighborhoods beyond. Once the zinc is gone, rust eats the sheet from the surface down, and the failure concentrates exactly where water runs hardest. On homes east of Federal Highway we treat marine-grade metal as the default, not the upgrade: aluminum, stainless, or copper, matched to the roof and fastened to resist the same corrosion.
Wind is the other local force. A gust that finds a raised flashing edge applies leverage no fastener was sized to resist, and one June storm can undo a seam that survived a decade of ordinary weather. Between storms, the roof itself works the metal: surface temperatures swing enormously between a scorching afternoon and a sudden downpour, and thousands of those expansion cycles gradually work fasteners loose and open hairline gaps at the sealant line. This is why we check the flashing's mechanical attachment — not just its appearance — every time we evaluate a leak near a Pompano Beach roofline.
Old or corroded step pieces come out and new metal goes in, one roofing course at a time, lapped so gravity does the sealing.
We cut a clean groove into the mortar joint, seat the counter-flashing inside it, and lock the top edge with weather-rated sealant.
Wide chimneys on the uphill side of a roof get a peaked diverter that splits runoff around the stack instead of letting it dam against the masonry.
Roofing-cement patches are stripped off and the transition rebuilt in metal, since smeared tar only delays the leak while hiding the damage.
Galvanized flashing near the water is replaced with aluminum, stainless, or copper selected for salt exposure.
When a recent roof job reused tired flashing or face-glued the counter layer, we redo the details the way the metal was meant to be installed.
We check both flashing layers, the reglet joint, the surrounding courses, and the fasteners, and confirm the entry sits at the roofline rather than higher on the stack.
The quote spells out which layer failed, what metal replaces it, and the price, fixed upfront with no hidden fees.
Step and counter-flashing go in with correct sequence and overlap, seated into the masonry, sealed at the top edge only — where sealant belongs.
We finish by sighting the assembly against the wind directions that drive rain here, confirming coverage before we climb down.
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Step flashing is the lower layer — small metal pieces interleaved with each course of roofing so water keeps moving down the roof. Counter-flashing is the upper layer, set into a groove in the masonry and lapped over the step pieces from above. The system works on gravity and overlap; when either layer loses its position, the seam leaks.
Yes. Flashing work happens at the chimney, not across the whole roof — we free only the courses that engage the step pieces and reset the counter-flashing into its groove. Unless the decking beneath has rotted, the rest of the roof stays untouched.
Probably not. Reused step flashing and counter-flashing glued flat against the brick are the two most common shortcuts we find after re-roofs, and both give out after a couple of soggy summers. We rebuild the details correctly and work around the new roofing without disturbing the rest of it.
As a stopgap before a storm, it has a place. As the repair itself, no — South Florida sun breaks sealant down within a few summers, and the water returns, usually with rot as a bonus. Metal in the right layered order is the fix; sealant only finishes the top edge.
Aluminum, stainless steel, and copper all handle salt exposure well; plain galvanized steel does not last near the beach. The best pick depends on the roof material and the look you're after. We spell out the metal and gauge in the written quote so you know exactly what's going on the roof.
It changes the method, not the principle. Tile roofs use pan and cover details at the chimney rather than shingle-style step pieces, and the tiles themselves have to be lifted and relaid without cracking. We handle both tile and shingle transitions and quote them accordingly.
Pattern is the giveaway. Flashing leaks show at ceiling level right beside the stack and act up when rain blows sideways; crown and cap trouble tends to surface down in the flue or at the firebox before anywhere else. We check the entire stack before quoting, so the repair lands on the confirmed entry.
It shouldn't. Metal comes in finishes that sit quietly against shingle, tile, or metal roofing, and copper weathers to a muted brown within months. If appearance matters on a visible elevation, tell us — we'll go through the options in the quote.
Whether the address is in Palm Aire, Cresthaven, Pompano Beach Highlands or Kendall Green, the same Pompano Beach family answers, quotes, and shows up.
Homes backing onto the Intracoastal don't get Pompano Beach's salt exposure — they get it doubled. Ocean air arrives over the roof while the canal exhales its own damp, mineral-heavy breath from below, and the chimney's metalwork stands in the overlap all year. Our waterfront rule is simple: nothing goes on that roofline unless it was built to shrug off both. That local context is why chimney flashing repair in Pompano Beach rarely looks like the textbook version.
Condo and townhome buildings near the beach mostly run factory-built fireplaces inside framed, stucco-clad chases — light, efficient, and utterly dependent on their chase covers to keep water out. Salt air shortens that cover's life dramatically in Pompano Beach. If yours is original to the building, it has earned an evaluation. Around Pompano Beach, ignoring that reality is how small chimney flashing repair jobs turn into big ones.
Hurricane season keeps its own schedule and doesn't consult yours. The smart window for chimney flashing repair is before the first system spins up, and Pompano Beach calendars fill quickly once the forecasts turn interesting. Call while it's quiet. It shapes both what we check and what we recommend for chimney flashing repair here in Pompano Beach.
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